Overview
Tank water heaters wear out from the inside. Steel corrodes once the anode rod is spent, sediment cooks on the bottom, and eventually the tank weeps or splits. Rusty hot water, a damp base and an age past ten or twelve years all point to replacement rather than repair.
Installing a heater is more than swapping boxes. Gas units need a vent that drafts and a properly sized gas connection. Electric units need the right circuit. Every install gets a relief valve line routed where it belongs, a drain pan where required and an expansion tank when the house has a pressure regulator or a check valve. Permits are pulled when your city requires them.
How we handle it
Size it right
Household, fixtures and space decide gallons and fuel.
Set it to code
Venting, gas or electric, relief line, pan and expansion tank.
Fire and test
Burner or elements checked, leaks checked, temperature set.
What it costs
The heater itself, its fuel type and size set the base price. Code items like an expansion tank, pan, new gas connector or vent pieces, plus permit fees, are listed separately so you see what each part costs. Moving the heater adds to the job.
Good to know
- Write the install date on the tank with a marker for future reference.
- Register the warranty with the manufacturer soon after install.
- If you plan a big soaking tub, mention it before we size the heater.
Many 1980s and 90s homes in Braun Station and Guilbeau still have their original heater location in the garage, often with outdated venting or no expansion tank. We bring those up to current code.
Water heater installation questions
How long does a water heater last?
Around 8 to 12 years here. Hard water and skipped flushing shorten it.
Should I upsize?
If you run out of hot water often, yes, or consider tankless.
Do you remove the old one?
Yes, removal and disposal are included.
Can you move the heater from the attic to the garage?
Often, yes. It usually needs new gas or electric, water lines and venting, which we include in the quote.