Overview
Lost water hits you twice, once on the bill and again in rot or mold you cannot see. It hides behind sheetrock, over ceilings, beneath the lawn and under concrete. Hunting by demolition is slow and destructive; hunting with instruments is fast and leaves one small, tidy hole.
We start at the meter to confirm a leak and measure how fast water is moving. Then we isolate the yard line from the house, and hot from cold, to narrow the zone. Acoustic sensors hear water escaping under pressure, thermal cameras show warm spots from hot water leaks, and moisture meters confirm what we find.
How we handle it
Confirm at the meter
Everything off, watch the leak indicator.
Isolate the zone
Yard, hot side, cold side, fixture by fixture.
Pinpoint and mark
Acoustic, thermal and moisture readings agree on a spot.
What it costs
Locating is billed apart from fixing. An easy find under a vanity goes fast; a leak under tile or behind finished drywall needs more gear and hours. As soon as we pin it down, you get the repair number standing right there.
Good to know
- Read your meter at night and again in the morning with no water used; any change is a leak.
- Check under sinks and behind toilets monthly for drips or stains.
- Save a few months of water bills so a sudden jump is easy to spot.
Homes on the rocky ground north of Tezel Rd move less than those on heavy clay, but leaks still show up at old fittings and under slabs. Watch for a meter that ticks with everything off.
Plumbing leak detection questions
Will you be opening walls just to look?
No. Detection is non-invasive. We open only where the leak is confirmed.
Is there a quick way to test for a leak?
Shut every tap and water-using appliance, pop the meter lid and watch the tiny red or black wheel. Any spin means a leak.
Can you fix it once you find it?
Usually the same visit.
Can a pool or sprinkler leak raise my bill?
Absolutely. We can tell whether the loss is in the house, the yard line or an outdoor system.