Overview
Pipes fail for different reasons, and the reason changes the repair. Freezing splits a line along its length. Corrosion thins copper and chokes galvanized steel from the inside. Physical damage from a nail, a drill or a shovel punctures a single spot. Old plastic can turn brittle and crack.
We remove enough pipe to reach sound material on both ends, then join new pipe with fittings rated for the transition, whether copper to PEX, galvanized to copper or cast iron to PVC. A bad transition is one of the most common reasons repaired pipe leaks again, so we take that step seriously.
How we handle it
Expose and assess
Find the damage and the cause.
Replace the section
Cut to sound pipe, new material, proper transition.
Support and test
Strap the run, pressure test, check for drips.
What it costs
A short section in an open crawlspace or garage is the least expensive. Repairs inside finished walls or ceilings take longer. Transitions between old galvanized or cast iron and new pipe need special fittings that add some cost.
Good to know
- Insulate exposed pipe in attics and garages before winter.
- Avoid hanging anything from exposed plumbing lines.
- Mark known pipe locations before hanging shelves or pictures on shared walls.
Outdoor runs to sprinklers, pools and detached garages are common on bigger northwest side lots, and those exposed lines are where we see freeze and sun damage most.
Plumbing pipe repair questions
Can you repair galvanized pipe?
Yes, though if it is badly corroded, replacing more of it is often smarter.
Why did a new pipe leak at the joint?
Usually a poor transition or an incompatible fitting. We use the right one for each pipe.
Do you repair cast iron drains?
Yes, by replacing the damaged section with PVC and proper couplings.
Can old galvanized pipe be connected to PEX?
Yes, with the right transition fittings, though badly rusted galvanized is better replaced.