Overview
No pipe lasts forever. Galvanized steel slowly rusts shut. Polybutylene, the gray plastic used widely in the 1980s and early 90s, can fail without warning. Copper in some water conditions pits over time. When a house has had several leaks in different spots, or the water turns rusty, the supply system is telling you it is done.
A repipe replaces all the supply lines from the main to every fixture. Most of the new pipe runs through the attic and drops down inside walls, which keeps openings small. We add new shut-off valves at each fixture, test the whole system and patch the access openings when we finish.
How we handle it
Map the routes
Attic and wall paths to every fixture.
Install new lines
PEX or copper, new stops at each fixture.
Test and close
Pressure test, old lines cut out, openings patched.
What it costs
House size, number of fixtures, pipe material and attic access set the price. PEX usually costs less than copper. Permit fees and patching the access openings are included in the quote, so the number you see is the number you pay.
Good to know
- Ask which walls will need access openings before work begins.
- Clear closets that back up to bathrooms; we often route through them.
- Plan the repipe before new paint or flooring, not after.
Polybutylene was common in homes built across the northwest side in the 1980s. If you see gray plastic lines at your water heater or under sinks, that is worth checking.
Plumbing repipe questions
Will I have water during the repipe?
Usually, yes, each evening. Most work happens during the day.
PEX or copper?
PEX is flexible, freeze resistant and fast to install. Copper is a solid choice too. We will price both.
Do you need a permit?
Usually yes, and we handle it.
Does a repipe include drain lines?
A standard repipe covers water supply lines. Drain replacement is a separate project if needed.